Notes, Conventional Wisdom and Suggestions for Owners of 1995/1996 Buell S2/S2T Models
Last edited on 10/18/2008 16:33
The information detailed below has been accumulated from various sources including the Bad Weather Bikers Website (http://www.badweatherbikers.com/). The BWB reflects the personal experiences of Buellists that contribute to the board. The items mentioned here are only a fraction of those that have been discussed on the BWB and represent an abstract of the opinions offered there. To aid in identification of these items, photos and drawings have been provided when available. For additional information, alternate opinions and additional item discussions please spend some time getting to know your fellow Buellists on the BWB. However, as is so often the case with information found online, always “consider the source” and know that “your mileage may vary.”
|Primary Chain Tensioner|
|Rear Shock Absorber|
|Shifter Detente Plate|
|Shift Lever Assembly|
|Front Exhaust Hanger|
|Throttle Cable Clamp|
|Rocket Box Gaskets|
|XB Rocker Box Cover|
|Sprocket Rotor Assembly|
|Oil Level Issues|
|Synthetic Oil Use|
|Filter Unwinding Syndrome|
|Circuit Breakers and General Electrical Contact Maintenance|
|Intake Manifold Leaks|
|Hard Bag Latches|
|Final Drive Belt Transmission Pulley|
|Air Cleaner/Carburetor Backing Plate|
|Front Isolator Bracket to Head Bolt Failure|
In the last few years, Buell has redesigned several components that did not turn out well the first time out. They have offered these items to Buell owners at no cost and without regard to the mileage/warranty status of the Buell even though they are not technically considered a recall.
For some out of warranty situations, Buell may offer remedies for failed parts in the form of “Goodwill” replacements. These appear to be handled on a case-by-case basis in concert with your local dealership. The particulars of each case may vary from "waived fees" to "owner pays labor/Buell pays parts" to a standard “Goodwill” fee of $100 – a sort of owner co-payment.
Primary Chain Tensioner (URGENT!)
At the risk of being considered alarmist, it is difficult to under emphasize the importance of upgrading the primary chain tensioners from the original part to the new beefier one. There have been many expensive failures of the originals that have in some cases taken stators, rotors, clutches and transmission parts with them when they grenaded. Here is a photo showing the difference:
Just in case you could not already tell, the new part is on the right. Photo courtesy of Aaron Wilson
(2001+) Beefier Chain Tensioner: Part number 39975-90A plus Primary Case
Gasket #34955-89A, Oil Seal #37101-84, 1 Qt. Primary case lubricant (see notes
on synthetic oils below)
The convoluted story of Buell Rear Shock absorbers would in a perfect world be left to the realm of the several recalls, with every Bueller coming out of the process with the best possible rear suspension for his (or her) bike. Unfortunately, this is sometimes not the case. There have been many opportunities for individual choice, bad timing, dealer ignorance and the forces of chaos to leave the Buell with less rear suspension than it should have.
The 1995/1996 Buells were shipped from the factory with a Works Performance (WP) rear shocks that looking something like this:
WP Shock OEM 1995 - 1998
This shock was delivered with a spring too weak for setting preload correctly for rider weights over 200 lbs., and valving that was insufficient for anything other than medium weight riders at moderate levels of riding. Heavier riders, two up riding and/or touring with luggage pushed the shock past its design capacity. To its credit, several suspension specialty companies can and will modify this shock to suit the heavier load rates and more aggressive riding. This shock did, however, suffer some race related failures that caused Buell to recall it in 1999. Buell replaced the WP shock with a Showa, which can be identified by the chrome can enclosing the preload spring and the configuration of the rear arm.
1999 Showa Shock - OEM and Recall
The first Showas offered little or no improvement on the preload and valving problems, and to make matters worse proved difficult or impossible for the suspension specialists to upgrade. Within a few months of the recall many of them began to blow cartridge seals and lose their fluid. If that were somehow not enough, several of these shocks suffered catastrophic structural failure while being ridden on the road by regular Buell owners. This brought on the second recall in which certain Buell models were given a Band-Aid “fix” that came to be known as the “SRP (Shock Repair Package).” This consisted of a clamshell device that was installed over the rear of the shock and a metal strap hose clamped to the front around the shock eye. This did nothing to prevent the failure. It did insure that the rear suspension would not collapse after a shock failure and prevented the rear tire from eating its way up through the fender and seat.
SRP Equipped Showa
After a time the good folks at Buell came up with a Showa shock that finally addressed the Buell suspension design. It is equipped with a strong enough spring to set the preload for heavy rider loads and two-up/touring use. When combined with the rear isolator upgrade, the rear suspension feels much better and performs as designed.
Its stronger rear arm can identify the newer K1400 rear shock.
Showa K1400 Shock OEM 2001 - 2002
The K1400.8 may be available free of charge for any pre 2001 motorcycles that have not had a previous recall shock installed. It has also been a free replacement (waived goodwill upgrade fee) for any recall shock that leaks, providing that the leak occurs within one year of the recall shock’s initial installation. If the recall shock leaks outside of a year from install, it may be installed for a $100 goodwill upgrade fee. The question remains as to whether or not Buell will replace the SRP shocks as a free replacement. There was a letter sent out to owners of Buells that needed the SRP Band-Aid. It is reported to have stated the K1400 upgrade would be at the discretion of the Buell owner, if the owner objected to the SRP.
In summary, if you have a WP the K1400 may be installed free. But why would you want one? If you have a leaker Showa within a year of its install, you might get a free K1400 – a very good upgrade. After a year, it may cost you $100 – not a bad deal. If you have an SRP in good condition, you will need to read “The Successful Buell Ownership Experience” (included in this collection) and follow the suggestions there pertaining to a “three-way partnership.”
Showa shock Part Number K1400.8
Harley Davidson redesigned the shifter detent plates for the Sportsters (and therefore, Buells) in 1999 to reduce the effort in shifting and improve accuracy. This is a great upgrade to do when you change out your soon to be exploding primary chain adjuster.
Photo courtesy of Henrik Bo Pedersen
Plate Upgrade HD Part Number 33656-90A + new retaining spring (11019)
When installing the 2001 shifter on a S2, the Buell kit # 49074-01y is a direct bolt up with a few minor modifications. You may need to add a 1/4 inch spacer between the shift lever mounting bushing and the primary case to bring the shifter further out from the primary case. Without the spacer the shifter may hit the primary case on when up shifting. Depending on which footpeg set your S2 has, you may have raise the adjustment of the shifter lever by extending the threaded upper eye. The peg mount in relation to the shifter location seems to be quite a bit higher on the S2 and S2Ts. For other models the recommended lever tie bar length is 4.6" and a maximum of 4.7" (see instructions in P&A section). With the S2 peg mounts the tie bar length may need to be set at 5.25" and the primary shaft lever set at a 3:00-4:00 in order to achieve an optimal foot lever adjustment.
Photo courtesy of “The X-1 Files (http://www.saintjohn.nbcc.nb.ca/Marriott/x1/)
2001 shifter lever/linkage upgrade # 49074-01Y @ $99.95
The original equipment footpegs on the 1995/96 Models are very soft and the rubber covers have a tendency to tear and then rotate on the metal inner shaft. Starting in 1999 these pegs (a stock HD footpeg) were changed to a superior assembly and in 2000 were provided with springs. Although the prices may have gone up, most riders agree that the later parts are far superior to the 1998 offerings.
loaded footpeg conversion:
50178-96Y E-clip 2 ea. $0.70
50794-00Y Spring, Footpeg pivot 2 ea. $4.30
50795-00Y Pin, Footpeg pivot 2 ea. $3.50
Optional: 50785-98YA Left Footpeg Assembly/ 50786-98YA Right Footpeg Assembly - $8.10 each
Aluminum Millennium X1 Pegs Left Peg N0403.Q /Right Peg N0404.Q $6.95 each (see above for spring load parts)
The header/muffler assemblies on the pre-2000 Buells have been known to lose header stud nuts, break header studs, fracture headers and generally shake themselves to pieces under normal use. For this reason, the good folks at Buell developed an improved front exhaust hanger that helps resolve these problems and have been offering it to Buell owners as a no cost “Product Improvement Program (PIP)” item. The details of this are covered in Buell Service Bulletin B-032. You may need to bring Buell Customer Service (414-343-8400) into the discussion if your dealer is not aware of this “PIP” program.
In many cases this upgrade is made part of the Shock/Front Shock Mount recall (B-035A).
New Hanger Old Hanger
Exhaust Header Mount Retrofit Kit #S1001-01A1
The Front Brake Rotor and Carrier were improved on the 2000-year models to eliminate or reduce the rattling of the previous year’s assemblies. This assembly will bolt right up to the older models, although removal of the original carrier may be a bit of a challenge. It is suggested that you start by coating the flat head screws with liberal amounts of WD-40 and then allow some time for penetration. From there, use a center punch to whack each of the screws in their Allen wrench recesses to break up any corrosion in between the screw and carrier. Then use an air impact wrench/Allen socket on low power. If this does not work, you can use the center punch set at an angle to the outer surface of the screw in such as way as to drive the screw until it breaks free. Your final resort might be to grind off/drill out the head of the uncooperative fastener after which the remaining threaded section can be wound out using vice grips.
The rotor assembly is priced at around $100.
Buell Rotor Carrier assembly
3655A Qty 5 needed, Pan head Torx Screw
New brake pads - Ferrado 911 or EBC
The Throttle Clamp, a new part on Buell Blasts, works well to resolve a problem with the Buells that may have been the cause of several serious crashes. There have been reports of throttle cables jumping out of the cable brackets on Buell carburetors causing the throttle to jam at wide open. One remedy for this is to always make sure that your cables have no slack in them. Another more positive solution is to install the clamp.
Photo courtesy of "The X-1 Files (http://www.saintjohn.nbcc.nb.ca/Marriott/x1/) C0130.L and C0129.L Clamp halves plus screw AN0604.2CZ – about $5
Consider doing the Buell recommended rocker box modifications detailed in the
Crankcase Breather Section seen below when replacing the gaskets.
Part #16800-84. Have your dealer look for Parts and Accessories Bulletin #709.
The rocker box cover from the new XB engines can, with a little modification, be bolted right up to the older "Evolution" (XL) engines. Not only does the upgrade reduce the incident of gasket problems it also addresses the tendency of the older engines to blow excessive amounts of oil out through the crankcase breathers. This is accomplished by replacing the older two piece cover and umbrella valve assembly with a single cover that uses a real world PCV valve.
17605-00YB - Rocker cover, front head $39
17642-02A - Rocker cover, rear head $39
17606-00YA - Grommet, Viton, Black $2.95 each (need 2)
17607-00Y - PCV Valve, $6.90 each (need 2)
868A - Hex Socket Button Head Screw, $4.75 each (need 2)
For a complete how-to pictorial on the upgrade please refer to Jose
Quinones's article reposted at http://home.att.net/~castodon/josesxbcover.html
Buell changed its recommendations on spark plugs in 1999.
It is important to make sure that your bike is not running too hot a plug by
using the 10R12 or its equivalent.
27661-00Y (10R12) (Supersedes old/hotter 6R12 OEM plugs)
NGK DPR7ea-9 hot (not recommended)
NGK DPR8EA-9 medium
NGK DPR9EA-9 cool (equivalent to Buell 10R12)
DCPR same except socket size
Wheels - NSK bearings
Front wheel - 2 ea. 6204-2RS
Rear wheel - Right side - 2 ea. 6205-2RS/Left side - 1 ea. 62205-2RS
PM (Chrome) Wheels - NSK bearings
Front wheel - 2 ea. 6204-2RS
Rear Wheel - 3 ea. 6205-2RS
The front and rear suspensions on the Buell from the factory, although remarkable from the first time anyone throws a leg over, are inadequate for heavier riders, riding two up and/or touring. Although there are adjustments that may allow the suspension to be optimized for rider weights of as much as 200 lbs and less, the suspension components quickly run out of preload adjustment when the rider load increases beyond this point. No amount of adjusting the dampening settings can compensate for out of specification preload.
For the front forks the only way to achieve optimal handling performance is to have the forks respringed and revalved. One sure sign of this lack of preload on the S2 is the tendency of the front forks to bottom out when hitting bumps while braking. This bottoming out damages the steering head bearings and can cause them to become notchy well before their designed replacement mileage.
There are several companies that will be happy to rebuild the stock forks to accommodate the riding weight, riding style and touring needs of those that do not fit the factory design parameter. They can also provide the necessary parts for those that wish to do the upgrade themselves. For information:
Racetech - http://www.race-tech.com/
Lindemann Engineering - http://www.le-suspension.com/
Stock sidestand preventative recommendations include:
Although not as common as the "falling off the sidestand" syndrome, Simon Dykes had this failure of note:
Here is what Aaron Wilson did to stabilize his S2 while on the kickstand. Note the bend in the stand just below the pivot point. The second photo shows the resulting change in the lean angle from the more upright stock configuration.
BWB's "Rickie" also recommends rebuilding the locking mechanism as shown here.
Powell contributed this "Cadillac" quality fix. It completely
replaces the original Buell sideplate(s) with custom-made upgrades from Gilberts
HD in Port Huron, Michigan. Mike notes that they have a machined aluminum
finish, which is different from both the 1995 and 1996 stock sideplates. The 1995 Models and 1996 S2 plates are polished on the outside surface and have cast appearance inside the webbing. The 1996 S2T models have gray powder-coated sideplates matched to their frame color.
Mike suggests that the
Gilberts plates could be polished to match the '95 right side plate. Achieving
a matching set the '96 would
require removing the right side plate's powder coating and then polishing both
plates. He opted to just purchase an additional custom Gilbert plate for
the right side. Contact: Jim Gilbert at 800-947-4035 ext.14. Price:
$250 for the left sideplate and $150 for a matching right sideplate.
For additional information please see the following links.
Note: Mike and several others (including Buell luminary Ferris Bueller) have found that there can be a corrosion problem with sideplate screws. Removal may require a sharp hammer blow delivered via a pin punch or brass drift to break loose the corrosive residue. It has been suggested that sealing the backside of the threaded holes in the frame with silicone may keep moisture off the threads and eliminate the corrosion.
First, you did not read your owner’s manually carefully. It explains to only check your oil after the engine is at normal operating temperature, which means ride it around some first before checking. It also says to only check the oil level with the motorcycle STRAIGHT UP AND COMPLETELY LEVEL, which means balancing the bike off the kickstand while checking the oil.
Your oily mess is the result of the engines well known tendency to “wet sump” – a condition where as the bike cools after use oil from the tank drains back down into the crankcase giving the uninitiated rider the impression that the bike is low on oil. Filling based on a cold “wet sump” reading will be adding oil to a tank that may already be full. There are even cases when a warmed up bike with the oil filled only to the top mark on the dipstick will oil the tire through the overflow. For this reason, many experienced riders only fill to the ¾ full mark.
The welded aluminum oil tank on the S2 models is a work of art when compared with the cheap plastic "oil bag" on the later model Buells. Its superior design eliminates the "dirt falling into the tank" problem when checking the oil level that plagues the newer Buells. However, there have been instances of split seams and/or failed welds that may require periodic inspection by owners.
Caution: Be careful with the drain plug and its gasket. The gasket has a tendency to fall off and hide. If you do not notice that it has disappeared, you may resort to over tightening the plug in order to stop a pesky leak between the plug and the tank. There are instances in which over torqueing the drain plug has pulled the threaded insert out of the tank. Care must also be taken to make sure the drain plug gasket is positioned optimally. VST thread compound my help resolve a persistent drip.
The Scenario: You have checked your oil and the tank is in need of “topping off.” You ride to your local Harley Davidson/Buell dealer and ask what oil you should use. The service manager/tech/salesman/parts counter person says, “Harley Davidson recommends you use only Harley Davidson 20W50 for warm weather and 10W50 for below 40 degree use.” This is true, the manual says so and HD makes lots of money selling its oil to HD/Buell owners based on what the manual recommends.
You have been around long enough to know there is more than just one type of oil. You ask the service manager/tech/salesman/parts counter person, “Is the HD oil a synthetic? I have heard people get better mileage/less emissions/less leakage/longer change intervals/cleaner engines by using synthetic oil as opposed to regular oil.” A shocked look comes over the dealer’s employee’s face, one that you would expect if you had some sort of uncontrollable flatulence problem. “Don’t use synthetic oil in you Harley Davidson engine. It is too slippery and will cause your roller bearings to flat spot because they won’t spin, it will ruin your seals and gaskets, it will leak out and it’s use will void your warranty!” None of this is true. If you have been told any of this, calmly put your wallet back into your pocket, find your motorcycle keys, slowly back out of the dealership get on your motorcycle and ride away like the very wind. You will need to find another less delusional, brainwashed and larcenous dealership for your Buell.
Harley Davidson considers information on its oils and lubricant to be “proprietary” in many if not all cases. They rely on your faith in their knowing of what is best for their product as well as their profits. It will not hurt your motorcycle to use the recommended products, but there very well may be better alternatives at the same price or with additional benefits. Synthetic oil is one of these products.
There are many opinions about how and when to use synthetic oil in your Buell. Once you have gotten around the “too slippery/warranty void” nonsense you will find many synthetic options, many benefit claims and many different price strata. A middle of the road approach, and one used by many Buell owners, is to run the HD oil during break in and then for another couple of thousand miles. After draining out the Harley oil and filling with synthetic most owners chose to change the synthetic oil and the oil filter (see Filters below) at the same interval noted in the service manual for the non-synthetic products.
From the Harley Davidson Website – New Product
Eagle® Synthetic Motorcycle Lubricant - SAE 20W50
Screamin' Eagle® Synthetic Lubricant works in all three cavities of your motorcycle: the engine, transmission and the primary chaincase and is developed with a proprietary three synthetic basestock formula. This is the first multi-purpose synthetic motorcycle lubricant specifically tested and certified by Harley-Davidson. Formulated to meet the cleanliness requirements of engines providing long term protection with superior high-temperature stability for high output engines. Formulated to maintain the coefficient of friction for proper clutch operation and provide adequate lubrication to the primary chain drive. Formulated to provide lubricity for the anti-wear requirements of transmission gears. Formulated for improved seal protection. Approved by Harley-Davidson for use in all stages of engine life. Lubricant is not detrimental to break-in stage of engines.
1 Quart Bottle
Formulated for Harley-Davidson Evolution® XL, Evolution 1340, Twin Cam and Revolution equipped models and all Buell® models.
99824-03 IN-STORE PURCHASE ONLY
Contact dealer for availability
There are alternatives to the HD Sport Trans fluid in your primary/transmission cases as well. Many have gone to product from Redline or Mobil 1. There have been some reports of a mysterious “green goo” residue in the clutch/stator/rotor areas of the primary after use of Redline Shockproof Heavy (a thick, reddish/pink fluid) and Redline has recently modified its recommendation from Shockproof to a 75W90 for use in Buells. The subject is a vast one, and this link will provide additional information: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/3590.html?1039731002
Your use of synthetics vs. HD products may depend, as it does for many of us, upon how far you are from a dealer and how close the nearest Auto Zone store is.
It has generally been accepted that more oil
capacity is good for Buells, as is cleaner and cooler oil. Larger oil
filters can provide added benefit over the stock "Sportster" oil
filter in all these areas. There are options both in the Harley Davidson
dealerships and more mainstream sources. If you somehow feel driven to
contribute to your local HD dealer's "Early Retirement Fund", the Dyna
oil filter (Harley Davidson part number 63812-90 - available in chrome but,
alas, not with fringe) will provide improvement. There are dozens of after
market options based on the Ford FL-1A/Purolator PH-8 will also do very well.
For a more complete discussion please refer to the following: http://minimopar.net/oilfilterstudy.html
There is one drawback that my be related to the use of larger oil filter, that being the . . . . . .
Oil Filter Unwinding Syndrome
The Scenario: You are motoring happily through the twisties, secure in the knowledge that your synthetic oil and larger filter are providing you Buell with superior lubrication and enhanced oil performance when you suddenly feel a hot, slippery liquid beginning to fill you motorcycle boot. A quick look in the mirrors brings your heart into your throat as you see a vast cloud of blue oil smoke billowing out onto the road behind you - a sight only a WWII destroyer captain could love. You may have just become the unwitting victim of the mysterious oil filter unwinding, oil-spewing syndrome.
The solution for this is drawn from the pages of our racetrack brethren's book of knowledge - safety wiring. To keep your filter from loosing you will need to first drill a 1/16 inch hole in the muffler mount directly below the filter near the upper case through bolt. Then secure and install a worm drive hose clamp (readily available at most NAPA stores) on the oil filter with the drive unit at the 1:00 position. To complete the fix run safety wire between clamp's drive unit and the hole you just drilled. This photo may be of some help:
The Scenario: You are cleaning up your bike and notice there is always oil dripping from your air cleaner. You open up the breadbox (aka airbox) and find the inside is fouled with oil and the filter is getting too dirty too fast. Is something wrong? The Buell Corporate line is:
those who have oil puking problems through the head breathers, Buell is suggests two
modifications to the middle rocker box cover to cure this problem, possibly as
part of a rocker box gaskets repair/replacement: (1) drill out the oil drain
hole to 1/8" so that oil can drain more easily, and (2) chamfer 60 degrees
the hole in which the umbrella valve sits. According to BMC, the new umbrella
valves will not sit down fully (and seal off) because of their new
design/material--chamfering the hole allows more of the stem of the umbrella
valve to pull down into the hole and seal off better."
Photo courtesy of "The X-1 Files (http://www.saintjohn.nbcc.nb.ca/Marriott/x1/)
The Buell engines come stock with the crankcase breathers dumping the oil vapor/water vapor from the crankcase into the intake stream via the breadbox. Although most of this gets pulled into the cylinders and is burned off, some still remains behind in the breadbox, air filter, carburetor, etc. The solution is to remove your breathers from the airbox to a filtered line that opens to free air. Many use a catch can on the end of their breather line to make sure no oil gets on the bike or the road. There is another advantage besides keeping the bike cleaner – the stuff from the breather doesn’t burn as well as gasoline and air. Removing it from the intake stream is worth a couple of extra horsepower.
For another breather alternative be sure to read the
“XB Rocker Box Cover” in the “Upgraded and Improved Parts” section
The chances are you have a system that is out of alignment and /or over torqued and stressed. Over tightening the header bolts at the exhaust ports will inevitably lead to a broken header studs – they are only spec’d for about 7 ft/lbs of torque. After checking to make sure you have the new, updated exhaust hanger your next move should be to carefully assemble the entire system from the headers to the rear muffler hanger while only tightening the fasteners finger tight. Then go back through the system checking to make sure each connection is not bound up or stressed. Then, and only then, start tightening the fasteners – starting with the exhaust port studs – to their correct torques while making sure all the connections down stream are still free to move. This is called the no-stress alignment method.
Aaron Wilson has come up with another method for use in his 1999 M2. Although the 1999 models are more prone to exhaust system failures than the earlier models, his technique – which is called the stationary header system – may have merit for all models. He describes it here:
The full dialog can be found at:
Before heading down the expensive “dead battery, bad fuse, burnt out charging system” route your first move should be to make sure your battery cables have not vibrated loose. You have probably noticed that the engines on these bikes shake a bit. The battery cables are particularly prone to loosening under this vibration. If they can be moved by hand they need tightening using a 10 MM wrench.
The Scenario #2 You are motoring off into the sunset. All of a sudden your indicator lights flicker, your tach jumps from peg to peg and the engine sputters and dies as you pull to the shoulder.
After checking for loose battery cables as noted above, it becomes apparent that something more serious is going on. You may even get an intermittent failure and the bike may start back up only to shut down again. It is time to check the connectors (spade terminals) at the ends of the battery cables and the lead from the main breaker, particularly where they attach to the engine/starter. The "roadside fix" is to find a length of stout wire (barbed wire works, if your tetanus shot is current), loop it around the terminal where the connector failed (the battery terminal nut is 12 MM), cinch it up and then attach it to the end of the wire where the break is. As you can surmise, it may be to your advantage to carry a few wrenches, a set of wire cutters, electrical tape and either wire nuts or crimp connectors.
The battery cables on the S2 models are stiffer, and therefore more prone to vibration damage, than those on later models. A longer lasting fix (unless you prefer the look of barbed wire) would be to replace the old cables with later, more flexible parts.
Battery cables - 70097-75A, 70402-96YA (from a 2001 Buell M2)
If your bike is still broke, you may now go down the more expensive route.
The intake manifold seals may dry out and begin
leaking within a couple of years of install, but at least they are held to the
engine by Allen screws no normal wrench can turn. Leaking seals mean even
a properly tuned engine will run overly lean – a condition that can destroy
and engine. Intake seals and the carburetor/manifold seal will need to be
added to your periodic maintenance/replacement list.
The manifold seal has a tendency to bunch up when the carburetor is pushed into it. TIP: lightly grease the seal before pushing the carb into it. The intake seals arrive misaligned from the factory in many cases and need to be carefully installed so that the gap between the manifold and the metal flange is equal on each side. Take care to make sure the manifold is not jammed into place – it should be free to move until you tighten down the Allen screws. Ah, the Allen screws.
You probably already figured out the problem while trying to find an Allen wrench, Allen socket or ball end Allen wrench that will find the Allen screw and still have enough room to turn. Some have discovered that by removing the fuel tank (and easier job than it sounds like and always a help in carburetor/manifold work) the pesky screws can be turned using a T-handled, ball end Allen wrench. Another less expensive solution is to find a standard Allen screw that works, and then cut off a short section that can be placed into the screw head leaving enough sticking out to use an open end wrench on. TIP: This “cut off the Allen wrench” solution works in several other places on the bike where a “special Buell factory tool” is recommended.
Although spray cleaning, either using a pressure washer or at a pay-to-spray station, is an effective way to remove layers of dirt and grime care must be taken to protect the Buell’s unsealed bearings. Both sets of wheel bearings, the steering head bearings and the swingarm bearings should not be subjected to direct pressure washing to keep the bearing grease in and the water out.
The stock set-up of a factory delivered/dealer prepped CV-40 carburetor may make the EPA happy, but it will cause your Buell to cough and stumble on a regular basis. The best way to tune up your Buell, particularly your carburetor, is to invest in a dynometer tuning by an expert dyno tuner. If that is not practical, here are some general suggestions that should get you started in the right direction.
Change slow jet to 45 or 48 (start with 45, stock is 42) .
2) Change fast jet to 190 or 195 (Stock is 195 or 200, note that a 185 works better for some bikes at high altitudes like in Colorado - true optimum jetting is best done via dyno)
3) Carefully remove plug over idle mixture screw (drill it out carefully) and reset idle mixture screw to 2 1/2 turns from full in or for best idle speed. If best idle is more than 3 turns out, switch to a 48 pilot jet and re-adjust idle screw for optimum idle.
5) Shim the needle a little higher (~0.01".)
If you are not one of the Buell owners blessed with eternal “Buns of Steel,” you may have already discovered the stock seat is not engineered or constructed for hours of motorcycling enjoyment. The stock seats are built with a shorter seat pocket that slopes toward the tank, in some cases forcing some sensitive anatomical parts into an uncomfortable position. Even the "Buns of Steel" won't help you here.
One remedy is to have the original seat rebuilt to lengthen the seat pocket and remove the slope to the tank. There are several after market seats that incorporate these changes into their design, the most common being the Corbin products. There are, however, some reports of handling/control problems with the Corbins resulting from the more rearward seating position. The original vs. replacement question seems to be a classic rider preference issue. The prospect of sensitive body bits being crushed against the fuel tank might cause some to lean toward the after market solution or pocket rebuild.
If your concern is only for distance related butt problems, gel inserts and or exterior pad accessory attachments may offer relief.
The high strength bolts (7/16 X 14 - 2 3/4") that attach through the front isolator bracket and into the front head have in some cases been known to shear off. Although there has not been enough independent data collected to date to determine if the failures are mileage related, corrosion related, use (or perhaps, abuse) related, improper or inept wrenching related, or the result of a manufacturer quality control problem or a Buell design specification deficiency. What is apparent is that these bolts are failing at some incident level and that replacing them before they break will eliminate either the usual failure shown in the below left or . . .
. . . .the less frequent but much more disastrous secondary failure shown in the above right.
In bikes that have had the Buell B-018 Front Isolator Mount System Safety Recall completed on their Buell, the original bolts were replaced in this procedure with high strength bolts manufactured by f911. This is also what you will be provided when buying replacement bolts (Buell Part # 6131-Y) from your Buell dealer's parts counter. These bolts can be identified by the manufacturers marking on the bolt head as shown in left hand photo below.
There are alternatives to the Buell supplied bolts. Chromate Industrial Corporation supplies a high strength bolt of equal or greater strength than the dealer bolt that also has an anodized anti-corrosion coating. Since there are still questions remaining unanswered about the Buell bolt, alternate sources such as Chromate my be advisable.
For a more comprehensive report on various aspects of these failures please see http://home.att.net/~castodon/boltreport.html
Chromate bolt information can be found at http://www.chromate.com/Fasteners%20-%20Cap%20Screws.htm
Until more information is available, these bolts could be considered a periodic preventative replacement - perhaps on a yearly basis.
To be continued on the Bad Weather Bikers website . . .